Installation

The Field Panel is the design of the main panel in the room. This panel may cover the entire ceiling or be centered in the room, as shown in the sketch above.

The Filler Panel is a panel with a simple over-all design such as a "hammered" or "dimpled" finish. This panel is used to center the Field Panel in the room.

A Molding strip may be used to enhance the appearance of the ceiling. It is installed between the Field Panels and the Filler Panel.

The Cornice is applied to the corner of the wall and ceiling. It can be one of our metal cornices or one of your own choice such as wood.

Installation Instructions

 

Field Panels: We recommend you never start a row of panels along a wall, using the wall as a guide. Walls are seldom straight, and usually will cause a misalignment of the installation. Before you start installation, measure the wall at each end of the room, and mark the center of the wall. Snap a chalk line across the ceiling. Measure the adjacent walls, find the center and snap a chalk line in this direction also. You have now located the center of the room. Depending on your layout, your field panels may be on these lines, or a measured distance from the centerline. Install a row of panels along the length of the room first. This row will act as a guide in lining up the other panels. We recommend you start in the center of the room, and work both directions. This will reduce any magnification errors of alignment by 50% over starting at one end, and working to the full length of the room. Install all of the field panels first. If you are using a filler panel, do not nail the last 6" of the outside perimeter of the field panel installation.

Filler Panel: Cut the filler panel to the size required. The panel must be installed slightly under the edge of the field panels. Now nail the perimeter of the field panels, also driving nails through the filler. If you are installing a molding strip between the field and filler panels, the filler panel doesn't have to be under the field panel. Just be certain any gap between the field and filler panels is smaller than the molding strip, which will cover it.

Cornice: Measure down the wall the depth of the cornice you will be using. Snap a chalkline to determine to bottom of the cornice along the wall. Start nailing from a corner to the other wall. Miters can be cut by hand, or a power miter box using an abrasive disk. The cornice has a finished edge, Install a cone-head nail or paneling nail into the beaded edge every 6 " The cornice is installed over the field or filler panels.

Molding: The last and easiest step is installing the molding strip. Place the beads of the molding over the beaded edge of the field panels. This will keep the panels straight and aligned.

Installation Tips

 

• Wear gloves when handling the tin ceiling panels, some panels are very sharp. If during installation, a panel drops, let it go! Do not try to grab it with your bare hands.
  
• Install 3/8" plywood to the ceiling by nailing it into the joists. For backsplash application, 1/4" plywood is adequate for holding the nails. If your ceiling is cracked or sprayed with acoustic, it is not necessary to remove the acoustic or repair the ceiling first. Do not install a tin ceiling by nailing it directly to a plaster or drywall ceiling.
  
• Use 1" paneling nails or order factory supplied cone head nails for installation. We recommend cone head nails for the field panels and cornice, and the paneling nails for the filler, as they are less noticeable in the filler panels.
  
• If you have decided on a wall to wall pattern, do not start installing using a wall to align the panels. Walls are seldom straight and are sometimes curved. A slight variation in the starting line of panels will be magnified by each additional panel installed, and in a large room will be a glaring error. Find the center of each of the four walls, and snap a chalk line to determine the center of the ceiling. Using the centerline as a guide will keep your panels straight and will result in a professional looking installation.
  
• When you have finished the installation, If you see a seam that appears noticeable, it can be sweged tighter by placing a small wood block against it and tapping with a hammer.
  
• After installation, clean the panels with an odor free paint thinner before painting. This will removes any soil, oil and fingerprints. Use an oil-based paint. Some brands of exterior paints are made with a U.V. inhibitor, which will greatly reduce a yellowing effect that takes place over time. It is usually easier and less expensive to paint your ceiling after installation, this also assures that the nail heads and any scrape marks will also be painted.
  
• Tin finish panels should be either painted or treated with polyurethane in order to preserve them from rusting overtime. For a clear tin finish, after installation, clean the panels with a paint-thinner, such as mineral spirits. Without touching the panels, which can leave fingerprints, apply two coats of non-yellowing polyurethane. Use polyurethane made especially for metals and not wood. We suggest Rust-Oleum Clear Glass Enamel polyurethane that is for metal. Apply one coat of polyurethane every 4 years in order to protect the panels. For protection against any moisture or water leaks, it is recommended that before installation the backside of the panels to be treated with a coat of oil-base primer after cleaning with a paint-thinner. If the panels are going to be painted, after priming the backside of the panels and installing the panels clean the panels with a paint-thinner. Than prime them with an oil-base primer and finally, paint them with an oil-base paint. The plated and pre-painted panels have a polyurethane coating to preserve the finish that does not need any more treatment on either side. For use in a bathroom, we highly recommend priming the back of the steel finish panels before installation for protection from humidity.

 

1. Cover the wall where the backsplash is to be installed with 1/4" plywood.

2. Use tin snips with an offset handle to cut the panels to fit the measurements. An offset handle helps minimize sharp and jagged edges, while also cutting a full 4' length without bending the panel.

3. Overlap the panels as you place them on the wall. Also, make sure to have the factory edge of the backsplash panel sit on the kitchen countertop.

4. Place a nail on the designated bumps every 6" to hold the panels secure and hide the seams.

5. Stainless steel, prepainted white, and plated backsplash panels do not need any further treatments, but tin finish backsplashes have to be painted or treated with polyurethane.

6. Use a wood quarter round molding underneath cabinets or wherever else an area is exposed and the backsplash ends. Paint or stain the molding to match the cabinets.

7. Stand back and enjoy your new backsplash.